Brickmould is the exterior trim that finishes the edge of your door frame, and you usually want it on a replacement door unless you’re aiming for a very minimal look and have excellent water sealing.
Brickmould 101: What It Actually Does
Brickmould is an exterior casing around the frame that sits between the door jamb and the exterior wall cladding and projects slightly to throw water away from the opening, door manufacturers. It visually frames the doorway and hides the rough joint where the frame meets brick, stucco, or siding.
Functionally, it works with caulk and flashing to help block moisture, drafts, and insects at the perimeter. That protection reduces the chances of swollen jambs, hidden rot, and energy loss right where the conditioned interior meets the weather.
Most profiles run about 1 1/4 to 2 inches wide, which affects the overall "brickmould dimension" of a prehung unit. For example, a typical 36-by-80-inch inswing door with standard brickmould ends up roughly 38.5 inches wide and just over 81 inches tall, and that’s the size that has to fit your masonry or siding opening.
Some installers call brickmould mostly cosmetic, but if the flashing and housewrap behind the door are minimal, that outer trim often becomes the last real line of defense at the frame edges.
Brickmould vs. No Brickmould: Look, Comfort, and Security
With brickmould, your entry looks more intentional and architectural. The extra shadow line around the frame adds depth, helps shed rain, and, when fastened correctly, stiffens the area around the latch side—one reason many brickmold doors are marketed as slightly stronger against forced entry.
No-brickmould doors sit flatter and cleaner against the wall, which suits modern elevations and glass-heavy systems. As several manufacturers note, no-brickmould doors can be a bit more budget-friendly and offer more visible glass, but they rely heavily on precise installation and sealing at the frame-to-wall joint.
Key tradeoffs:
- Brickmould boosts traditional curb appeal and visual framing.
- Brickmould adds a forgiving, sealable overlap at a vulnerable joint.
- No brickmould emphasizes minimal lines and larger glass.
- No brickmould trims material cost but demands more installer skill.
Do You Need Brickmould on a Replacement Door?
You’re not required to use brickmould, but on many replacement projects it’s the smart move. If your current door already has it and you remove that trim, you’ll expose cut siding edges, uneven brick, and gaps that need to be rebuilt or re-trimmed anyway.
Brickmould is also the reference surface for many storm-door systems; standard storm-door sizing is based on the width and height between brickmould edges. If you want a storm door now or later, keeping or adding brickmould makes that upgrade much easier.
Brickmould is usually the better choice if:
- Your facade is traditional or transitional and the entry feels visually flat.
- The door is highly exposed to wind-driven rain or harsh weather.
- You plan to hang a storm door that keys off brickmould dimensions.
- Existing siding or masonry around the frame is rough and uneven.
Before you order, measure the existing opening carefully—jamb to jamb for the unit size and, if brickmould is present, outside edge to outside edge to understand the total footprint. That tells you whether a new prehung unit with factory-applied brickmould will drop into the space cleanly or if you’ll need minor framing or trim adjustments.
When You Can Skip Brickmould—or Rethink the Detail
Skipping brickmould is reasonable when you’re after a crisp, modern facade or when another trim strategy is in play, such as flat cement board or metal cladding that runs tight to the frame. In remodels where the wall is badly out of square, fixed brickmould can even fight a plumb install, which is why some pros prefer doors without brickmould that they trim out on site.
Even without brickmould, you still need a robust water and air barrier: insulated gaps at the perimeter, quality flashing tape tying into housewrap, and a continuous bead of exterior sealant at the frame-to-wall joint. That "hidden" envelope, not the trim itself, carries most of the long-term moisture management.
Skipping brickmould works best when:
- The architecture leans modern and favors flush, minimal trim.
- You’re matching existing flat trim boards or metal wraps elsewhere.
- The existing opening is tight, and added trim would crowd walks or steps.
- You’re working with a pro who is meticulous about flashing and sealing.
Materials That Elevate Both Curb Appeal and Durability
If you do choose brickmould, the material matters as much as the profile. Wood delivers a warm, traditional look and takes stain beautifully, but it needs regular paint or clear finish and careful maintenance to avoid swelling and rot, especially on sun-baked or wet exposures.
PVC and composite brickmould bring a "set it and forget it" attitude—rot-resistant, insect-proof, and low maintenance, with profiles that can read anything from crisp and modern to classic. Vinyl versions are common on value-focused door packages: usually smooth, often white, and aimed at low upkeep rather than historic detail.
Material cheat sheet:
- Wood: best for character and historic homes; higher upkeep.
- PVC/composite: great for busy households and tough climates; low maintenance.
- Vinyl: budget-friendly and simple; limited profiles but clean and practical.
When you replace a door, don’t treat the brickmould decision as an afterthought. The right trim choice—whether bold and traditional or minimal and modern—helps your new door sit cleanly in the wall, tightens up the building envelope, and gives your entry the kind of curb appeal and security presence that feels deliberately built, not just installed.
